Method of making shoes



Jan. 23, 1934. w. J. KELLY 1,944,560

METHOD OF MAKING SHOES Filed NOV. 1930 3 Sheets-Sheet 1 ATTORN EYS Jan. 23, 1934. w J. KELLY 1,944,560

METHO'D OF MAKING SHOES Filed Nov. 1, 1930 3 Sheets-Sheet 2 VENTOR gffim ATTORNEYS Jan. 23, 1934. w J; KELLY 1,944,560

METHOD OF MAKING SHQES Filed Nov. 1, 1930 S SheetS-Shet s ATTORNEYS Patented Jan. 23, 1934 METHOD or MAKING SHOES William J. Kelly, Brooklyn, N. Y., .assignoit of one-half to Arthur 1):. Baseh, Brooklyn, N. Y.

Application November 1, 19,30. Serial No. 492,674

27 Claims. 129145) This invention relates to improvements in the method or art of making shoes and the principal object is the new and improved method whereby h es may be made with a m im m ameu t 9? material, a minimum wastage and be completely and uniformly lasted, well fitting, finished in appearance and have various other numerous advantages hereinafter set forth.

To the accomplishment of the foregoing and such other objects as may hereinafter appear, this invention consists in the methods of making shoes disclosed in the drawings and deseribed the specification and sought to be defined the appended claims, it being expressly understood that changes may be made in practice Within the scope of the claims without digressing from my inventive idea.

In the drawings,

Figure 1 represents a side elevation of a shoe in the process of manufacture with an insole and an upper assembled on the last.

Figure 2 is a bottom plan View showingthe rest for the bottom of the last and the pinehers of a pull-over machine for pulling an upper over the last. i V I Figure 3 is a vertical transversecross seetion taken through the front portion of the assembly shown in Figure ,2, showing themanner in which the upper is pulled over the last.

Fi re e is a vertical tran ver G s sect hn showing the manner in which the lower part of the upper is wiped or forced in against the lower side edge portions of the last and against the side edges of the insole.

Figure 5 is a similar transverse cross section showing the tacksdriven into theside edges of the insole, this operation taking place at substantially the same time that the wiping operation takes place.

Figure 6 is a {vertical transverse cross section showing the step of sewing the upper to the outsole.

Figure 7 is a perspective view showing apertion of the upper'and sole after thesewing-operation is completed and showing how the stitch goes over the tack to embrace the tack-and ,to hide the hole left by the tack when the tack is afterwards withdrawn.

Figure 8'is a view similar to Figure 5,Tbut.sh ows the tacks driven in at an angle'to the eidgesof the insole, the tacks being inclined downwardly, the upper and liningbeing broken away in this figure and in Figures --9 and -10.

Figure 9 is ,another modification of the positioning of the-tack, and shows the .tacks driven into :the edges of :the insole at an 7 angle the tacks being inclined upwardly.

:Figure -l 0 represents ,the nextstep -in the processafterFigure-Q, in which the head- -o'f the tack is forcednpwardlyto bend the tack.

Fi u es 1L 1? and 13 how a oth embodiment in when as 1 9 s eep h l a e enest d, or ea 62 te the n b k d a the hhtt m 9i last the herh' hhlhhh hesis in 39 9? h hh e hh 'a' t at hQ h hh hheh Fi he en i ure 1 4 s ea h! vg hal dss" c bha view showin the use 9 sw ng the ii pe h he w a e 9? th ass mbl gh h l 1' 12 lag-Q13:

F ure hheresshtse het e e t iew e u per ash e h the timed 'I l h I l' a: insole assen ihled na last iwhich' emana es the first steps of my process as already'described.

F u e 6 is a r ih a hhe s' h s 1 e the aht Perilh i the .h h h sheivhmiih Fi ure 15- Fig re 7 s a Vie shand shows the lining lasted to the outside of are Figune 153 is a -vertical transverse cross sec heh ll s rat n h st r'i w h hlhlph l h h .pos n.

Figure 19 is a vertiqalftran e e'cross section wraths cu in e hple illustrating ,the step hen iinvbiv'es the perms nent seculring of the .outsole 'in"pos'ition,"'a1id iehre 20-h e rh tihi hhh t f cihhss'isechh showing a three sole shoe.

apnhe hph i a wh heh 9 r of P ior p eh hhe ep hh risehhl m 8 il March ,9 19.26 :s h i 7 August 1 a .1929 wh ghf l h eh h i 6- l,-3 2 2,;2-85 and erial No l ifi lflfill, filed 'Jinu y 39 naa-wlh hhh be m Pat :I fi QILa'W P l the l t t e v te i h e th up e th eie s hc fi h h sh ine 5W? ef, I t .iehe eql si -i sem- T h h h e the tacking of the insole onthefbottonipfithe l b mean 9 th hee s h i 1e h l the sam ehapeahh size 9 eihtt fsh h 1th o om -iq th :Th hs s h v hss m hheh su per-an h ih n ll d he h hheq the ppe hh hi t h h n c e i F ures i a d This ihlhhch phshes b th pu l ve ahi' h d ne all in th reieheh m e h w ch ihq u es th h hehe s wh h ghhthe mih a d cha ns hth :HQQJG en f th l e h th ie pps fie a d ed s Th bbhtoih 6 h h las 5 h htsr te li m lh s i h sn d QQ $l i lQh Ql h n ,-i i hbi 5 iior the rest 1 maybe of substantially ith elsa me size as h team 9 th l s W t th last n thi es hen w th pi lhqve ,m na ismlispterand lMfiPPWQhd linin -a ulle -s mu aneou -fl w rdl ehdghiwa hlvlfovefgthgwep inont .fil'idapfu thle la'st and on gopposite [sides ;or the last, as clearly shown in ,Figures Z and53, 'so

. connection with the side pinchers.

that the bottom edges of the upper and lining extend outwardly at a decided angle away from the lower side and front edge portions of the last. At the same time when the pinchers are pulling the upper downwardly and outwardly the rest 9 which contacts the bottom of the last is forced upwardly a small distance, to move the last inwardly of the upper and force it into the upper so as to obtain a snug fit. It is to be expressly understood that the number and position of pinchers may be varied. While the drawing of all the embodiments shows an upper and a lining being pulled it is to be'noted that if the lining is to be dispensed with in some shoes, the upper alone is subjected to the pulling operation.

The next step includes the pushing or wiping in of the upper and lining against the lower side portions of the last and against the side edges of the insole l. This is accomplished by the wiping mechanism shown in Figure 4., and designated by the reference character 11. This forces a part of the upper tightly against the sides of the last and the edges of the insole and forms the angle indicated by the reference character 12. It is to be understood that a wiper may be used at the center of the toe at the front end of the last in co-operation with the front pincher similar to the way that the side wipers are shown in At or about this time while the upper is being held tightly on the last, the side tacks 13 are driven through the upper and lining into the side edge portions and front edge portion of the toe of the insole substantially horizontally, the side tacks being clearly shown in Figure 5. When this operation is completed, the lower edges of the upper are in the position clearly shown in Figure 5. The tack 5 is then removed. It is to be expressly understood that the tack in the front edge portion of the insole may be omitted and only the side tacks used. If the front tack is omitted the upper is, nevertheless, pulled at the front end over the last.

The next step is the placing of the outer sole or outsole 14 on the partially lasted upper. This sole, in one form, is larger than the bottom of the last, the extended rim being adapted to receive the extended side portions of the upper. It may be secured to the last by the tack 15, shown in Figure 6. When this outer sole is placed in position, the lower side edges of the upper which were bent to extend substantially at right angles to the lower side edges of the last rest flatly upon the marginal sides of the sole itself, as clearly shown in Figure 6. V

This assembly is next placed upon the pivoted tilting table construction 16 disclosed in my prior application Serial No. 95,853, and stitched by the stitching mechanism designated generally by the reference character 17. This construction permits angular positioning of the table so that the work may e stitched at any desired or suitable angle. The outer edge portion of the sole rests on the angular table portion 18 to support the same during the stitching operation. The stitches 19 are formed through the sharp angle 12 above referred to, and when the lasted upper is being sewed it is so handled on the tilting table that the stitching is very tight and close to the edges of the insole 4, and also goes over the side tacks 13, as indicated in Figures 6 and 'L. During the stitching operation and due to the angular positioning, the tacks 13 are forced slightly downwardly and the upper 2 is drawn tightly against the last. This results in a completely and accurately lasted shoe, and in the hiding of any holes which may be left by the tacks 13 after they are withdrawn. After the sewing operation the tacks 13 and 15 are withdrawn.

In Figure 8 is shown a slight modification of the tacking step. In this form the tack 20 is driven into the side edge portions of the insole 4 at an angle with the horizontal, the head 21 of the tack being higher than the point 22 of the tack. The remaining steps of the method are the same when the tack is driven into the side edge portion of the insole, as shown in Figure 5. In this embodiment, the forcing down of the side tacks 13 is greater than in the previous embodiment and the upper 2 is drawn and held against the sole more tightly. Also when the tack is driven at this angle it permits the correct positioning of the outer sole on the last with the free edges of the upper supported by the rim of the outer sole.

In the modification shown in Figure 9, the tacks 23 are driven upwardly at an angle to the horizontal into the side'edge portions of the insole 4 in a direction opposite to that shown inFigure 8, and in this form the head of the tack is below the point of the tack. When using this modification, the tacks after being driven into the edges of the insole are bent upwardly as at 24, as shown in Figure 10, in order to deflect them away from the bottom of the insole and permit the outsole to be tacked to the last and inner sole. If the tack were'left as shown in Figure 9, it would force the outsole away from the last and inner sole and the holes formed by the tacks would not be completely hidden. In this modification, the remaining steps are the same as those described in connection with the first group of figures. This embodiment is preferable when it is necessary to drive the tacks at the angle shownin order to produce a desirable product.

Referring now to Figures 11, 12 and 13, the insole 25 and an outsole 26 are cemented or otherwise suitably secured together before being placed on the last. The insole 25 is substantially the same size and shape as the bottom of last 1, and the outsole 26 is slightly larger and has extended marginal portions 26'. The cemented or secured soles 25and 26 are tacked to the bottom of the last by means of the tack 2"! with the insole 25 contacting the bottom ofthe last. The upper 2 and the lining 3 are then pulled, forced against the last, and tacked to the side edgeportions of the insole 25 by steps similar to those disclosed in connection with Figures 2 to 5, inclusive.

The sewing step shown in Figure 14 is substantially the same as that shown in Figure 6, and the operation will be apparent from the previous description.

The modification shown in Figures 15 to 20, inclusive, will now be described. In this embodiment an insole 28 of substantially the same size or slightly smaller than the bottom of the last is secured by means of tack 29 to the last and the upper and the lining are pulled over and secured to the side edge portions of the insole by means of side tacks 30 as described in the previous forms. However, in this embodiment, the free edges of the lining 31 are lasted to the bottom marginal portion 32 of the insole 28 while the upper and lining are tightly held by the tacks 3G.

1'7 and 13. It is to be particularly noted-that in I this medification the bottom edges of the upper arid lining are free and are adapted to be bent laterally while the upper and lining are held in position by means of the tacks. This enables the ready application of cement, glue-or the like, to the lining and to the first sole without the necessay of removing any of the tacks or other fastoning" means, and also permits the independent lasting or drawing of the lining from the edges of the first sole and insures the production of a correctly lasted shoe.

The tack 29 is then removed and the outsole 34 is tacked to the last by means of the tack 35 which passes through both soles and into the bottom of the last. The lower free edges of the upper are turned horizontally outwardly, as at 36, to rest upon the upper surface of the marginal edges of the sole 34 at approximately right angles to" the vertical plane of the upper and in substantially horizontal alinement with the inturned area 37 of the lining which has already been secured to the first sole 28. These inturned edges 6f the lining are, therefore, interposed between the first sole and the second sole.

The second sole 34 may be a middle sole for a three sole shoe, or may bean outer sole for a twp-sole shoe. In the first case, the second sole 3'34- aiid the upper are stitched or otherwise suitshown in Figure 19, and then a welt may be placed on the outturne'cl edges of the upper and secured to' the upper and outsole. In the second case, the secend sole 34 and the upper are stitched together, as shown'at 39 in Figure 20. The tack 35' isreh iovetl and the third sole 40 is then united to the second sole 34 and the upper by means of stitching 41, the welt 42 being similarly stitched.

This invention has various advantages includirig the simplicity of operation in producing shoes, saving of material due to the fact that the upper is simultaneously pulled on the opposite sides and ever the front end of the last and then held from slipping by tacks driven into the edges of the first sole. The resulting shoe is neat and attractive in appearance, well lasted, and strong in construction.

What I claim is:

1--. The method of making shoes, which comprises, mounting an insole on a last, pulling an upper downwardly simultaneously at opposite sides of the last, driving tacks through the-upper and into the edges of the insole while the upper seeing pulled, and attaching a sole to the upper. 2. The method of making shoes, which corn-- prises, n'icunting an insole on a last, the insole being of substantially the same size as the last, pullihg an upper downwardly and outwardly simultaneously at opposite sides of the last, fercing the upper against the bottom of the last and the insole, and driving fastening means through the upper into the edges of the insole.

3. The method of the character described, which comprises, mounting an insole on a last, the instil'e being of substantially the same size as the last, pulling an upper downwardly simultaneously over the front end of the last and at opposite sides of the last, driving tacks'through the upper into' the edges of the insole while the upper is held in a pulled condition, and attaching a 's'ole t6 the upper.

,, pulling an upper downwardly and outwardly simultaneously at opposite sides of the last while forcing the last in the opposite direction to cause the upper to tightly engage the last, and driving tacks through the upper into the edges of the insole. w

5. The method of making shoes, which com prises, mounting a sole on a last, pulling an upper downwardly over a last simultaneously at 15- po'site sides of the last, driving tacks through the upper into the edges of the sole, placing a second sole on said last, and then stitching the assembly at an angle to unite the upper'and said second sole.

6. The method of making shoes, which comprises, mounting a sole on alast, pulling an upper downwardly and outwardly simultaneously at opposite sides of the last while forcing the last in' the opposite direction to cause the upper totightly engage the last, driving tacks through the upper into the edges of the sole, placing a second sole on the last, and placing the edges of the upper on the extended portions of the second mentioned sole, and then stitching this assembly at an angle, the line of stitching passing over the line of tacks so as to hide the holes left by the withdrawal of the tacks.

7. The method of making shoes, which com prises mounting a plurality of soles on a last, the one sole being of substantially the same size as the last, and the other sole being of a larger size and having a rim which extends beyond the first sole, pulling an upper downwardly simultaneously at opposite sides of the last, driving tacks through the upper into the'edges of the smaller sole while holding the upper in a pulled condition, and then stitching the assembly to 110 unite the upper and the larger sole.

8. The method of making shoes, which com prises, securing together two soles of different sizes, the smaller sole being substantially the same size as the last to which it is applied, mount- 5 ing the soles on a last with the smaller sole abutting the bottom of the last, pulling the upper downwardly andoutwardly simultaneously at op"- posite sides of the last, driving a plurality of tacks through the pulled upper and into the edges of 120 the smaller sole, and then stitching this assembly at an angle, the line of stitching passing over the tacks so as to hide the holes left after the tacks are withdrawn. I

9. The method of making shoes, which com"- prises, mounting a sole on a last, pulling an upper and a lining downwardly and outwardly simulta neously over the front end of the last and at opposite sides of the last, driving tacks through the upper and lining and into the side edges of 130 the sole, turning the lining inwardly and secur ing the lining to the bottom of the sole, mounting a second sole on thefirst mentioned sole, and then stitching this assembly at an angle to secure the upper to the second mentioned sole.

l0. The method of making shoes, which com prises, mounting an insole on a last, the insole being of substantially the same size as the last, pulling an upper and a lining downwardly and outwardly simultaneously at opposite sides of the 140 last, driving a plurality of tacks through the upper and lining and into the edges of the insole simultaneously at opposite sides of the last, cc"- menting the lining to the bottom of the insole, mounting a sole on the last, stitching the assein- 14-h bly at an angle while supporting the outer edge of the sole so as to secure the upper and the sole, placing a second sole on the first mentioned sole, and stitching through the upper and through the 11. The method of making shoes, which comprises, mounting a sole on a last, pulling an upper and a lining downwardly and outwardly simultaneously at opposite sides of the last while forcing the last in an opposite direction to cause the upper to tightly engage the last, driving tacks through the upper and lining and into the edges of the sole while the upper is held in pulled con dition, placing a second sole on the first sole, and then stitching the assembly at an angle to secure the upper and lining and the second mentioned sole.

12. The method of making shoes, which comprises, mounting a sole on a last, pulling an upper downwardly and outwardly simultaneously at opposite sides of the last, driving tacks at an angle to the bottom edge of the last and through the upper and into the edges of the sole while the upper is held in a pulled condition, and attaching a sole to the upper.

13. In a method of the character described, the steps which comprise, mounting an insole on a last, the insole being of substantially the same size as the last, pulling the upper downwardly simultaneously at opposite sides of the last, drivthe edges of the insole while the upper is held in k a pulled condition, and then attaching a sole to the upper.

15. The method of making'shoes, which cornprises, mounting a sole on a last, pulling the upper downwardly simultaneously at opposite sides 4 of the last while supporting the last, and driving tacks through the upper into the edges of the sole, and then attaching another sole to the upper.

16. The method of making shoes, which comprises, placing'a plurality of soles on a last, the

two soles being of different sizes and the smaller sole being substantially the same size as the last to which it is applied, pulling an upper down- Wardly and outwardly simultaneously atopposite sides of the last, driving a plurality of tacks through the pulled upper and into the edges of the smaller sole, and then stitching this assembly at an angle.

17. The method of making shoes, which comprises, mounting a sole on a last, drawing an upper around the last and close to the edges thereof and fastening the upper to the sole by means driven through the upper and into the side edges of the sole, the edges of the upper being free and adapted to be bent laterall, placing a second sole on the assembly to support the free edges of the upper and then securing the second sole to the upper.

18. The method of making shoes, which comprises, mounting a flexible sole on a last, drawing an upper downwardly at various points of the last and over the front end thereof, simultaneously forcing the upper against the bottom of the last and the edges of the sole at a plurality of places, and then driving tacks through the upper and into the edges of the sole.

19. The method of making shoes, which comprises, mounting a flexible insole on a last, pull- .ing an upper downwardly and outwardly simuls second sole.

taneously at opposite sides of the last; and driv ing tacks through the upper and into the edges of the insole while the upper is being pulled.

20. The method of making shoes, which comprises, mounting a sole on a last, pulling an upper downwardly simultaneously at opposite sides of the last, driving tacks through the upper and into the edges of the sole while the upper is being pulled, and securing a second sole to the upper.

21. The method of making shoes, which comprises, mounting an insole on a last, the insole being of substantially the same size as the last, pulling the upper downwardly simultaneously at opposite sides of the last, and driving fastening means through the upper into the edges of the insole.

22. A method of the character described, which comprises, mounting a sole on a last, pulling an upper downwardly simultaneously at opposite sides of the last, driving tacks at an angle to the bottom portion or the last and through the upper into the edges of the sole while the upper is held in a pulled condition, attaching a. second sole to the last and bending the tacks, and stitching this assembly at an angle.

23. The method of making shoes, which comprises, mounting an insole on a last, pulling an upper and a lining downwardly simultaneously at opposite sides of the last, driving a plurality of tacks through the upper and lining and into the edges of the insole at opposite sides of the last, cementing the lining to the bottom of the insole; mounting a second sole on the last, and stitching the assembly at an angle so as to secure the upper and the second sole.

24. The method of making shoes, which comprises, mounting a sole on a last, pulling an upper and a lining downwardly simultaneously at opposite sides of the last, driving tacks through the upper and lining and into the edges of the sole while the upper is held in a pulled condition, placing a second sole on the firstsole, and then stitching the assembly to secure the upper and the 25. In a method of making shoes, the steps, which comprise, mounting a sole on a last, pulling an upper and a lining downwardly simultaneously at opposite sides of the last, driving a plurality of tacks through the upper and lining 25 and into the edges of the sole at opposite sides thereof, and cementing the lining to the bottom of the sole while the upper is held in a pulled condition.

26. In a method of making shoes, the steps,

which comprise, mounting a sole on a last, pulling an upper and a lining downwardly simultaneously at opposite sides of the last, driving a plurality of tacks through the upper and lining and into the edges of the sole at opposite sides thereof, cementing the lining to the bottom of the insole, and securing a second sole to the assembly.

27. The method of making shoes, which comprises, mounting a sole on a last, pulling an upper downwardly at opposite sides of the last, driving tacks through the upper into the edges of the sole and at an angle to the bottom of the last, mounting a second sole on the last and placing the edges of the upper on the extended portions of the second sole, and then stitching this assembly so that the line of stitching passes over the line of tacks so as to hide the-holes left by the withdrawal of the tacks.

WILLIAM J. KELLY. 

